Backcountry Scenic Drives: Emigrant Trails

Imagine yourself traveling the daunting distance fromcondemned the route. It was longer than the original
Kansas City to Sacramento…on foot. Now imagineand crossed treacherous Indian Territory over rugged
your journey with no cars, no roads or bridges, noand barren terrain. Emigrants abandoned the route.
hotels or restaurants, no reliable maps—and certainlyThe only subsequent traffic was Oregon prospectors
no GPS!rushing south to the California goldfields.
Over rugged mountains and barren deserts in hostilePortions of the historic Applegate Trail can be driven
Indian Territory, your only mode of transport istoday. One part of original trail is on the Surprise Valley
horsepower—of the animal variety. Your only meansTrail, in the extreme northeastern corner of California.
of navigation is the sun.This tricky piece of road climbs up and over a rocky
Think it sounds impossible? In the 1830s and 40s, tensridge embedded with large boulders. Keep an eye out
of thousands of people from the East didn’t. Theyfor wild mustangs that roam the area today.
risked their lives to claim free, fertile farmland inThe nearby Fandango Pass 4WD Trail also crosses
Oregon or hit the mother lode in California.the original Applegate Trail. Many settlers and miners
The Oregon Trail is the original and best known of alllost their lives here, attempting to cross the Warner
emigrant trails. Farmers established the route migratingMountains. Historical markers indicate these stretches
west to Oregon. The other well known is the Californiaof historic trail.
Trail. A few settlers diverged from the Oregon TrailHenness Pass Road presented migrants with a better
and headed south to California, establishing a southerlyway to cross the Sierra Nevada Mountains. This new
track.pass crossed into California further north than Donner
In July 1846, Jacob Donner made a fateful decision. HePass, avoiding harsh terrain around Truckee Lake.
led the Donner Party on a shorter, less traveledHenness Pass was such a good alternative that it
version of the California Trail. The legendary, disastrouswas later improved into a wagon road.
expedition trekked through Utah’s Great SaltMost of the original route of Henness Pass Road can
Desert. Amazingly, the group followed advice from abe driven today. For high clearance 4wd vehicles,
trail guide who had never attempted the route.Henness Pass Road is a long, easy, and scenic drive.
Unlucky and unwise, the group faced hardships dayAlong the trail are many historic emigrant campsites
after day. They didn’t reach the towering Sierraand stage stop sites. Although most are little more that
Nevada Mountains until late October. They attemptedsites, the large number of them reveals how busy the
crossing the range anyway. Early winter snowsroad must have been.
trapped the group in the mountains for the winter.Lesser known, is the Mormon migration. The religious
Rescuers reached the debilitated party in March. Halfgroup pressed west searching for a home free of
of the original 87 had perished. Infamously, emigrantsreligious persecution. Salt Lake Valley was the perfect
found alive committed cannibalism in order to survive.place. Soon overpopulation forced settlement
As a result of such hazards, the California Trail wasexpansion. Blazing a route across south Utah, they
little used. In the mid-1840s, few migrants had settled inencountered Hole-in-the-Rock Pass: a 1,200-foot gorge
the Sacramento Valley. During the gold rush, trafficto the Colorado River.
along the California Trail increased 50-fold. AnWith no feasible way around it, they had to pass
estimated 30,000 to 45,000 emigrants traversed thethrough it. They blasted boulders, widened the crevice
trail that year.walls, and graded a path, creating a series of roads
You can experience sections of terrain crossed byalong the cliff edges. An amazing feat of engineering,
the Donner-Reed Expedition today. Silver Islandthey tacked a road onto the sheer face of the gorge
Mountains Loop Trail near Wendover, Utah crossesby chiseling holes into the rock and inserting log
Donner-Reed Pass at its north end. This is an easy butsupports. The result was a 50-foot wooden road.
remote track that illustrates the hardships the DonnerThey planned 6 weeks for the expedition. It took them
Party would have faced. The beautiful and unusualmore than 6 months.
scenery must have seemed hellacious to the party,A long, interesting 4-wheel drive trail in Grand Staircase
struggling through the soft, muddy sand flats. DozensEscalante National Monument travels sections of the
of side tracks off the loop are interesting to explore.historic Mormon Pioneer Trail. Slickrock sections in the
An offshoot of the Oregon and California Trails wastrail’s last 5 miles require short, steep climbs and
called the Applegate Trail. The Applegate familycareful wheel placements. It’s only a short
blazed this arduous trail after two family membersscramble at the end of the trail to the Hole-in-the-Rock
drowned crossing the Columbia River. They sworesite. The enormity of the work of the early pioneers is
they would find a faster and safer route into Oregon.still obvious. You can still see scrapes from the
The first emigrant party to use the track proved theirswagons that descended through the Hole-in-the-Rock
was neither.on the sides of the passage.
After the disastrous journey, Oregon settlers